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In The Spring Kitchen

{ Pictured: Noritake Hertford and Rochelle Gold China }

How we celebrated the arrival of spring (YAYYYY): with a seafood-and-wildflower-inclusive dinner in our backyard. As annoying as daylight savings is - I mean really, trying to convince a four year old and a one and a half year old that "yes, I'm aware that it looks like it's noon outside but for real, go brush your teeth and go to bed" is the very definition of an exercise in futility - it's also so exciting, finally getting back those extra hours that we can spend taking an after-dinner walk in the park, or leaving the windows open so we can listen to neighborhood kids playing basketball, or sitting in the hammock with a book, or many of the other myriad uber-suburban activities that I never knew were particularly my jam but that I now, officially in my mid-thirties, have discovered are what make me the very happiest.

I want to ride bikes (well, no: more accurately I want to sit on the stoop with a beer and watch my kids ride bikes, but same difference). I want to have picnics in the park. I want to garden.

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In The Night Kitchen

Ruth Reichl's cider-braised pork shoulder recipe

Two of my favorite things: puzzles + cooking memoirs

I remember the first book of Ruth Reichl's I ever read - it was Tender at the Bonein theory a memoir but really an expression of her passionate belief that your meals (and the making of them) shape who you are in a very tangible way, starting even in the earliest parts of childhood. I loved it so much that I read her other books as soon as they came out: first Comfort Me With Apples, then Garlic and Sapphires, about her stint as the New York Times' food critic and all the subterfuge and drama (really) that job entails. Now I'm on to her latest, My Kitchen Year, about the shuttering of Gourmet when she was the magazine's editor-in-chief and her subsequent depression.

I don't always love Ruth Reichl - she can get a little treacly - but I can't stop reading her. And the biggest reason why I go back to her, over and over again, is the recipes; she essentially pioneered the memoir-peppered-with-recipe format that's so popular today. Granted, the recipes I've made from these books haven't always been the best ones on the planet - the matzoh brei was, in a word, a disaster - but when I'm reading her descriptions of how a dish didn't just exist in her life, but explained it somehow, giving her something that she hadn't even known she needed, I'm always desperate to try it for myself.

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Fettuccine with Sweet Tomato Sauce, Ricotta and Asparagus

fettuccine with sweet tomato sauce and asparagus on a red and white tablecloth

I once read a Nigella Lawson cookbook (and I do actually *read* cookbooks, cover to cover, as if they were for-real books with plotlines and such; it's my favorite thing to spend Christmas Day doing) in which she described a pasta dish - I think it was carbonara, but I'm not sure - as the kind of dish you carry to your bed and eat straight from the pot, preferably with someone you think is sexy.

I don't know about you, but anything that gets described that way is a thing that I want to eat. Like yesterday. This pasta dish, which I first wrote about back in 2010 (although the recipe has evolved over time into what you see below) is my personal eat-straight-from-the-pot dish: it's rich and creamy and cheesy and a touch sweet, and is - yes - the perfect thing to eat while laying in bed next to someone you think is sexy.

Or alone, in your pajamas, while watching Love, Actually. And I think we all know that's going to happen at some point during the next week or so, god willing, so here you go:

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Homemade Alphabet Soup (Sopa de Fideo)

mexican comfort food soup called sopa de fideo

Let me first just say, in case you're under the extremely mistaken impression that I am a food snob, that I have absolutely no problem with canned soup (or canned anything, for that matter). I think it is delicious, and have deeply-entrenched food memories that emerge when I so much as smell some Campbell's chicken noodle.

That stuff is DELICIOUS.

But! I also recognize that it's...maybe not, I don't know, the healthiest thing in the world, what with the sodium and the vaguely questionable meat cube-things that floating around in there. And soup is one of those things that is so easy to make in big batches and then throw a bunch in the freezer to eat later, so:

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Peanut Noodles With Stir-Fried Chicken

peanut noodles with chicken

I've made different versions of peanut noodles from time to time over the years - some good, some not especially. This one is the best. It's the ultimate comfort food - peanutty and soy saucey and pasta, I mean come on: what more do you want? And you can also do lots of variations on it: add more vegetables or a couple of handfuls of coleslaw lettuce if you want to make it lighter; add chili sauce to the dressing if you want it spicy; throw in chow mein noodles if you want some crunch. All good.

PEANUT NOODLES WITH STIR-FRIED CHICKEN (adapted from this recipe)

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